Tomato and egg always make sense

The Bite subscribers can now join the conversation — click the speech bubble icon to leave a comment or click the heart to like this post.

Tomato and egg already love each other. Join in

There wasn’t much to speak of in the fridge — the tail end of a steak, a clutch of cherry tomatoes slumping into themselves, a carton of eggs with two survivors rattling in the corner — but I had butter, garlic, a nub of feta, and that particular kind of summer decisiveness that comes not from planning, but from hunger and heat and a desire to be done. I cubed the steak and browned it hard in my cherry red Dutch oven, watching it cast off its fat and leave behind a savory varnish on the enamel.

Then in went the sliced garlic and tomatoes, the pan deglazed with a few generous pats of salted butter.

The tomatoes burst. The garlic softened. I stirred the steak back in, let it all mingle, then ladled the mixture into two bowls and crowned each one with a feta-fried egg — a crisp-edged, runny-yolked thing, its base freckled with melty brine.

I didn’t need to taste it to know it would work, especially spooned onto olive oil–kissed sourdough. Tomato and egg is a culinary truth, one of those elemental pairings that shows up across cultures not because anyone decided it should, but because it just makes sense. You see it everywhere. Once you start looking.

A global love story

In China, there’s the beloved tomato-egg stir-fry, which is quick, soft-scrambled and just sweet enough to make the dish feel round-edged and soothing. In North Africa and the Levant, it’s shakshuka: eggs poached in a rich, spiced tomato sauce that hisses when it hits the pan and settles into something molten and slow. Italy has uova al purgatorio (eggs simmered in arrabbiata, roughly translated to “eggs in purgatory”) while Mexico gives us huevos rancheros, with fried tortillas and tomato-chile salsa. Even in the American South, there are riffs. One of my favorite lazy breakfasts, picked up from childhood summers in the Carolinas, was a bowl of cheesy grits topped with tomato gravy and a lush, freshly burst egg yolk.

Of course, not every dish bridges cultures so easily. Some foreground our differences — the textures we prize, the sweetness we expect, the ways we learn to eat. In many East Asian cuisines, there’s an appreciation for bounce and resistance, what Americans might describe as “toothsome” or mistake for undercooked. In the U.S., sweetness shows up everywhere — even in places it doesn’t strictly belong. But tomato and egg? 

It transcends. There’s something elemental about the combination that makes it universally appealing, even as the forms shift from table to table, home to home. 

The chemistry behind the connection

At the core, it’s chemistry. Tomatoes bring acid and glutamates, the backbone of umami. Eggs bring fat, protein and a mellow, velvety savoriness. Together, they strike a balance: sharp and soft, bright and rich. The pairing satisfies on a level deeper than craving — almost architectural, like a well-engineered bridge. (I didn’t always think of tomatoes as savory until years ago my friend Jonathan, a chef, gave me a chilled glass of tomato consommé — clear, faintly golden. I expected delicacy. Instead, it was pure umami: tomato distilled to its essence, clean and resonant and utterly structural. I’ve never thought about them the same way.)

Part of the magic is how simple these dishes tend to be. With the chemistry already working in the cook’s favor, tomato and egg needs little else to become dinner. It’s cheap. It’s fast. It’s almost impossible to mess up, which may be why it’s often the first dish a kid learns to make.

While taking a closer look at some some tomato and egg-centered family recipes published online, I found an essay from the Yale Daily News — an ode to the cafeteria’s surprisingly good tomato-egg stir-fry. The writer called it “a taste as simple as Commons’ tomato-eggs to bring me home,” and described the dish with such tender awe it felt like a diary entry. She interviewed the team behind it and discovered that it was born from memory: a Chinese cook recreating the first dish she ever learned to make at nine years old, guided not by formal training but by feel.

It stuck with me, the idea that tomato and egg isn’t just a pairing, but a comfort script. A conversation between ingredients that already know how to take care of you.

And right now, that feels like a gift. It’s the season of dinner dread — when the sun’s still hot at 7 p.m., your patience is wilting and the idea of turning on the oven feels vaguely threatening. But tomato and egg already love each other. You don’t have to make them work. It’s a shortcut to flavor, to dinner, to that gentle sense of relief that comes from eating something simple and satisfying. Let it be a game, not a task. Call it fridge-foraged shakshuka. Call it “Chopped: June Edition.” Whip up pappa al pomodoro and slide a poached egg on top like a wink. Simmer Indian egg curry while the fan hums in the background. Make biscuits studded with sun-dried tomato and goat cheese, then crown them with slow-scrambled eggs. Dinner, solved.

Tomato and egg: elemental, eternal and ready when you are.

As you might remember, the theme of The Bite this month is, simply, tomatoes. We’ve slathered ourselves in tomato butter, discovered the delights of a no-secrets summer sauce — and next week, I’ll share a recipe inspired by one of the most iconic seasonal delights: a simple tomato sandwich. So, I have to know: How do you take yours? On white bread with Duke’s and a sprinkle of salt? Perhaps between two slices of toasted focaccia with a little fresh mozzarella? Let me know in the comments below!

Support our food journalism. Become a Salon member today!

What to make this week: Eggs in Purgatory (on toast)

Several years ago — deep in the strange haze of early pandemic days — I wrote a solo recipe for eggs in purgatory on toast. I was thinking a lot about liminal states at the time (pandemic, election week, general existential fog), and this dish felt like the edible version of that: suspended, spicy and oddly comforting.

The spicy tomato spread comes together in minutes, the egg gets steamed until it’s just-set and jammy, and it all lands on crusty toast with the kind of satisfying heft that makes you forget how little effort it took. If you're not quite ready to simmer a full pan of shakshuka but want that same tomato-and-egg magic, this one’s for you. A one-pan wonder with plenty of red pepper flakes, perfect for when dinner (or brunch for one) just needs to appear.

What we’re reading and watching: “A Physical Education” + “Ramsay’s Boiling Point”

I’ve been absolutely devouring “A Physical Education” by Casey Johnston, whose writing has long helped rewire the way I think about food, fitness and the body I live in. I first found Casey years ago through her “Ask a Swole Woman” column and quickly became a devotee of her She’s a Beast newsletter — the kind of resource that makes you want to eat an actual lunch and deadlift a Buick.

The book traces her journey from obsessive cardio and calorie restriction to something far more embodied: a practice of strength, sensation and self-trust. She writes beautifully about the slow, sometimes wobbly reclamation of her body from the “make yourself smaller” messages we’re steeped in — and how, weirdly enough, learning to lift weights helped her carry more than just groceries. It’s honest, insightful and deeply validating for anyone who’s ever tried to diet their way into feeling OK.

And then — a confession. My ideal post-workout wind-down lately? A vintage Gordon Ramsay deep-dive. Not the screamy, meme-ified U.S. version of “Kitchen Nightmares,” but the early UK seasons, when Ramsay still popped out for smoke breaks with line cooks (he doesn’t smoke, but they do) and occasionally remembered to be a human being.

Right now, I’m rewatching “Boiling Point,” the raw 1999 documentary series that follows Ramsay during the eight intense months leading up to the opening of his flagship restaurant in Chelsea. You see flashes of the chef he’ll become — brilliant, brutal, obsessive — but also moments of tenderness, mentorship and real vulnerability. It’s gritty and stressful in a way that scratches the “Bear”-shaped itch, and it’s fascinating to see young Marcus Wareing and Mark Sargeant hustling in the background like tiny culinary prodigies.

If you're in the mood for something that captures the high-stakes chaos of restaurant culture, “Boiling Point” is absolutely worth the revisit — at least until “The Bear” returns in (eep!) ten days.

FROM OUR PARTNERS

Learn AI in 5 minutes a day

What’s the secret to staying ahead of the curve in the world of AI? Information. Luckily, you can join 1,000,000+ early adopters reading The Rundown AI — the free newsletter that makes you smarter on AI with just a 5-minute read per day.

Sign up to start learning.